To infinity and beyond

I didn't have a chance to write about this yet, but I did just want to share a brief post about last weekend's European Heritage Days. In short, this annual event is an opportunity to discover the hidden heritage of each participating country, from shadowy crypts to closed-off catacombs, secret gardens to private apartments, and underground tunnels to museum archives. Even better, many of these intriguing openings are free to attend.

Here in France, there are some 17,000 sites from which to choose - and one of these enabled me to realise a long-held dream. I finally got to see behind the scenes of l'Académie Française - and breathe the same air as the "immortals", as they are known, the official guardians of the French language. Founded in 1635, and placed under the protection of the president no less, this secretive society commands the same sort of reverence one might expect for the Knights Templar themselves.

Now, if that all sounds a bit Da Vinci Code, it's kind of because it is. The meetings of this mysterious organisation are held behind closed doors; foreigners are prohibited from attending (the only exception being if you're a head of state and, even then, it involves a special ceremony); and the members wear long black cloaks embroidered with green and gold leaves. They even carry an actual sword. Admittance to this centuries-old syndicate is... well... a process. Basically, it's a case of don't call us, we'll call you.

On a more prosaic level, the members of l'Académie Française produce the definitive dictionary of the French language, set the grammatical rules around its usage, and award various literary prizes - including the prestigious Grand Prix du Roman. Oh, and spoiler alert: the immortals aren't actually immortal. Their name comes from the motto inscribed on their seal - “À l’immortalité” (To immortality) - reflecting their mission to preserve and protect the French language in perpetuity.

It's perhaps not surprising that such a venerated organisation requires a venerable home, so step forward the Palais de Institut de France - the distinctive domed building on the Left Bank of the Seine - and also home to several other learned societies. Dating from the 1600s, and designed by architect Louis Le Vau, this scholarly setting is as amazing on the inside as you'd imagine from the outside, crowned as it is by that elegant cupola.

At the heart of it all is the oldest public library in France, the Bibliothèque Mazarine, which is packed to the rafters with rare tomes, old manuscripts and historical documents - not to mention a huge celestial globe from 1694, some rather impressive chandeliers and a secret door. So, what a treat it was to have the chance to visit last weekend. We had to queue for a while to get into the building, but I'd do it all again in a heartbeat

I should just mention that it is possible to visit both the cupola and library at other times, too, and more details of that can be found here. But at the Heritage Days event, it was possible to see parts of the palace not normally open to the public and there were also special exhibits and displays. Even some of the immortals themselves were present - and several of them signed copies of their books.

Back on the subject of the broader Heritage Days event, it's worth noting that some of the openings and tours do require booking - and the best get booked up fast. The dates for next year have already been announced - September 20 and 21, 2025 - and the programme is typically announced in August. So, worth a note in the diary or a calendar reminder. Who knows, you might just get to meet an immortal.